by Matt Reed
12. April 2010 12:27
The latest market report for British sales of organic foods has just revealed what has been expected – some pretty serious drops in sales and that some food products have remained very robust. Almost every report over the past 18 months across the major markets for organic food has shown a similar pattern of declining sales of organic food. Indeed it appear that as soon as the global recession hit journalists were looking for something that could stand as a sign of the excesses of the boom time and many of them chose organic food as that emblem. Some people have suggested to me that supermarkets took organic food off the shelves in anticipation of declining sales, and in doing so created a self-fulfilling prophecy. Whatever the exact mechanism it has certainly been a tough time to be attempting to sell organic food.
Some commentators, such as Julian Rose, have suggested that organics has lost its way, and there has been much justified criticism of the marketing of organic food as elitist and expensive. To be fair if historical precedents are any guide then organic food will bounce back once the recession is over. During the recession of the early 1990s organics was very badly hit, with the amount of organic land shrinking. The organic industry is much better placed than it was and in some areas such as organic dairy products, the picture remains generally good.
Commentators such as Julian Rose are pointing out is the increasing loss of faith in the role of green consumerism in making changes in agriculture of a scale that will make a significant difference (see my forthcoming book). Rather organics is becoming part of the marketing strategies of the supermarkets, playing a bigger role in product differentiation than it has in making changes to agricultural practices and policies. Certainly a project about the marketing of organic food that I was part of a few years ago demonstrated that the gap between organic food promotion and that for non-organic food was closing. Yet the same project showed there was a definite appetite amongst for many people for the changes that organic food promised, and for a food system not dominated by a handful of companies. The disquiet was largely around the mechanism – consumerism.
The question that the wider organic movement now needs to address is whether consumerism is the route that is going to make the changes that they hope for or if other forms of action offer a more effective route.